![]() 08/31/2020 at 10:12 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
So like most modern cars my BMW makes hooking up a trailer light wiring harness. This is because most LED lights use a single wire to control the light, and a separate power wire that is constantly on. Or at least that my understanding. So you can’t just splice into the wire and get power for your trailer lights.
The option that BMW would like you to choose is a dealer installed 300 dollar OEM module. That’s a no go for me. So I started searching for a aftermarket wiring harness that is set up specifically for newer BMWs. I did not find that, but I found on that claims it works on BMWs 05 and up. It was 150 bucks on EBay, but I found it for 130 on Amazon. Not a bad deal. Tekonsha 119251 ZCI Zero Contact Interface Universal ModuLite Kit, 1 Pack
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So this is one I went with. The neat thing about it is it’s entirely reversible, not cutting no splicing necessary, it works off induction, like a timing light. Just clip the sensors around your tailight signal wires and connect the controller to the battery. BMW actually made that last part easier because the battery is right by one of the tailights. The kit does include about 10 feet of extra positive wire Incase your battery is upfront.
The hardest part of this process was figuring out which wire was which. Thankfully condescending, but helpful BMW forum member pointed me in the right direction. Know which wire was which I was off and running.... except I was lazy and waited another week to get on it. lol
Anyway today is the day I’m scheduled to take my boat the shop, so I had to do it this morning. Took about an hour for the full installation and testing process.
After everything is hooked up, you have to put the controller through a learn cycle, start the car, put the 15 amp fuse in the power wire, and then use each function separately for for 5 seconds. After that it should be working. And for me it did! Here’s my victory lap.
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![]() 08/31/2020 at 11:08 |
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I don’t know a thing about wiring LEDs but, h ow’s the boat treating you?
![]() 08/31/2020 at 11:09 |
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That’s pretty neat that it runs off inducted current
![]() 08/31/2020 at 11:10 |
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Haven’t had it in the water yet... except the rain today.
I’m dropping it off for a tune up, most likely a carb rebuild. It runs, but not well enough to take it out.
![]() 08/31/2020 at 11:13 |
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It’s really what sold me. Knowing that if it didn’t work, it can easily be removed without a trace, and that it doesn’t interfere any voltage sensitive systems.
![]() 08/31/2020 at 11:22 |
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The good news is that there probably isn’t a lot to the old outboard so hopefully getting it running isn’t too much of an issue. Do you have a fuel/water separator? If not, I’d get one as those little fuel tanks can get a lot of condensation in them.
Have fun! I was out yesterday and it was probably the prettiest day in a long while.
![]() 08/31/2020 at 11:28 |
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I hadn’t thought of getting a water separator, ill have to look into that.
I hope it’s a simple fix. It also leaks lower unit oil, but that should be simple seems like it just leaking from the full and drain plugs.
I just didn’t want to be the one to tear it apart because you don’t really get a second chance with a boat. Stranded with a car? Call a buddy to pick you up, or walk home. Stranded in a boat, now you gotta paddle back, hope it’s not too windy out there! I have also been looking for a Used trolling motor for the same reason.
![]() 08/31/2020 at 11:42 |
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I’d love to have an old boat just like that from the 60s or 70s. Just something to zip around on. But I can’t justify a third boat lol.
Hopefully just a quick carb clean and a tune up will have you on the water!
![]() 08/31/2020 at 11:52 |
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The water separators I have used for outboards are pretty simple . You can pick them up for like $40-50 and they just mount to the transom. Some have a clear bowl you can drain and others are just canister types.
A small set of stowable oars would be nice. I actually pay for towing insurance on my boat.